Iceland is on the bucketlist for many an aspiring and seasoned bikepacker. So off course it was also on my list of places to ride. Iceland is called the land of fire and ice, and it is no wonder that it’s a popular destination for bikepacking. With its rugged terrain and stunning scenery, Iceland offers a challenge for even the most experienced bikepackers and cyclists.
If you are planning on going, then I hope you can find some information in this blogpost. There are a few things you should know about Iceland. First, the weather and wind can be very unpredictable, so it is important to be prepared for anything weatherwise. Second, the terrain can be challenging, so you will need to be in good physical shape. Third, your bike needs to be well serviced and able to ride the rough terrain. Fourth, you will need to be self-sufficient, as there are limited facilities in many areas, this is especially true for the interior. Fifth, make sure you have the neccessary skills and gear to keep yourself safe and warm in the outdoors for prolonged periods.
Tick all of that and if you are up for the challenge, then Bikepacking Iceland is an unforgettable experience. You will experience some of the most beautiful and desolate scenery in the world, and you’ll have the chance to enjoy the unique culture and landscapes of Iceland
I have always known that I wanted to go to Iceland and either hike or bike, and as my outdoors life has been rotating more towards bikepacking and away from hiking the last couple of years, it made a lot of sense to bring the bike and do a traverse across Iceland on it. The next step was to plan a route and then a way to get to the first waypoint.
If you are interested in the bike and gear, I brought with me then see this earlier post.
I flew into Keflavik and after collecting the bikebag from the odd sized luggage. I took the bus into Reykjavik to the campground. I had booked the first night here and they were kind enough to store my bikebag for a fee. I assembled the bike and took a ride into town for a gas cannister. Back at the campground I assembled the rest of the bike and loaded it with supplies. I was then ready to get up early and ride out of town going east.
Day one took me east, south-east towards the southern coast. The terrain was rolling and steep at times on a just starting out heavy bike. In the afternoon I got to the town of Selfoss. Here I followed the ring road on a southeasterly heading towards Hella. The wind had picked up and I got my first real taste of what riding a bike on Iceland with a strong headwind meant.
I passed Hella and since I was still feeling okay. I continued for another 12k to Hvolsvöllur and the small campground there. Just as I arrived it started raining, so after picking up a few supplies at the local store. I put up the tent and settled down.
Day two dawned and I continued on the ring road towards Vik on the southern tip of Iceland. Again, I got to experience the curious phenomenon, which is, that it does not matter in which direction you are riding, the wind here on Iceland will always be in your face and today it was the kind of wind that pushes you two meters back for each meter you ride forward…
I stopped at the Skogafoss waterfall to enjoy the sight. I then continued on the Ring Road further before turning on to the dirt road that would take me down to the famous plane wreck on the southern coast for a quick detour. Back on the ring road I again topk a detour to the Dýrholaey cliffs where there is a great view out to sea and down the black sand beaches.
I tracked back to the ring road and once again took a detour down to the famous Reynisfjara black beach. Here I had lunch and a beer at the cafe before ‘hike a biking’ it across the Reynisfjall and into the town of Vik and to the campground there.
I pitched the tent and settled in at the campground. Later I took the bike up to the local church to get some photos and on the way back I stopped at the supermarket to get some drinks and snacks. I passed the evening by charging my phone and reading on my Kindle.
Day three dawned. I packed up, took a shower and after breakfast I rode east out of Vik on the Ring Road. I had not gotten far before the road curved northeast and breaking free of the mountains and glacier the wind hit me full I the face. I was going to be a long day in the saddle with a strong wind. I rode cursing the wind for about 40 kilometers before turning left onto a gravel road that was to take me inland going north. The traverse of Iceland from south to north had really begun.
Not long after that I began to climb the hilly terrain and now, I not only cursed the wind but also the rolling terrain that was getting steeper and steeper. I kept telling myself that, at least it was not raining. I kept a steady pace and took the necessary breaks where I hydrated and ate snacks to keep up the energy level.
The F208 trail took me further and further inland and as the day was setting, I finally began to enjoy the days ride. The terrain was tough but beautiful. Towards the end of the day, I finally arrived at the Holaskjol campground where I pitched my tent, put on some warm clothes, and made a well-deserved freeze-dried dinner that I wolfed down with water and coffee. Then I chatted with a German couple that was going inland in their rented 4×4 jeep. After that I quickly fell asleep. I woke in the night with some light rain and wind hitting my tent. But nothing to worry about.
Day five and I was packing up when another guy staying at the campground approached me to admire my bike. He was also curious about my plans especially since I was going further inland. I had passed other cyclist on the Ring Road but seen no-one else on a bike since turning north to the sand and gravel roads. I rode out of the campground and not long after came my first of many to come, river crossings. It looked deep and as I stood and contemplated how to best cross it, one of the local Rangers drove up behind me. She rolled the window down to ask if I was, okay? I replied that I was just thinking about how to best cross and was fine. She the drove across the river giving me some insight in where it was deepest. I took of my shoes, socks and pants and put on the neoprene shoes that I had brought just for these crossings. I waded out carrying the bike on my shoulder and crossed without any difficulty. The water was cold and came up to over my knees. On the other side I packed up and continued. This was to be the drill of the day. I think, I must have crossed about 8-10 rivers of varying width and depth during the whole-time traversing Iceland. There was to be only one that gave me some pause and worry, but that was not this day.
The terrain was getting even more hilly and downright mountainous. I was nearing the famous Landmannalaugar hut and detoured to it to get a break. The day was windy and chilly, so I bought a bag of crisps and a soda at their small store. I consumed both and decided to continue as I still had long to go and a lava desert to cross. The wind was again blowing in my face as I cleared the mountains and came out on the lava sand plateau. Slow and steady was the name of the game. The day was getting warmer as I came out on the F26 road. Here I turned west and practically flew down the road with the wind at my back. What a glorious sensation. I came to the Highland Center Hrauneyjar where I stopped for break getting a coffee and a slice of cream pie. The day was setting as I flew some more kilometers west on the F26 before turning north again onto the smaller 332 trail. I rode a few more kilometers before stopping to fill up on water and then I wild camped. The evening and night were beautiful with a good sized moon passing over me.
Day six dawned and I continued riding the small 332 trail. I stopped at the Haifoss waterfall before I crossed the river that fed the Haifoss. This was the only real deep river crossing with fast flowing water where I was extra careful with my footing and balance. The 332 trail then turned out to be a nightmare of rolling hills, river crossings, soft sand, loose gravel and huge rocks. It was slow going with a lot of ‘hike a bike’ up the hills as the trail was to steep and loose to ride. The down hills were also slow with lots of breaking and balancing to stay in the saddle. This continued for about 60-70 kilometers and at the end I and the bike had taken a beating. My back, arms and hands were aching from the challenging terrain. Luckily the bike was fine, and nothing had come loose or broken when I checked it.
The plan for the rest of the day was to turn northeast and pass the very famous Gullfoss waterfall before settling in for a wild camp and coming to the F35 Kjolur trail the next day. I was dead tired from the ride along the 332 trail, so some kilometers before the waterfall I passed the Skjol campground and spotting the sign advertising beer and pizza the bike sort of just steered it self on to the campground. Here I ordered pizza and a beer before deciding to stay here for the night and rehydrating on one more beer. The sunset at just after midnight was spectacular in the red colors.
Day seven and I woke to some noise from the campground as it was well visited being so close to the Gullfoss. I took to the bike and rode up the road. I stopped at the Gullfoss center to enjoy the mighty Gullfoss waterfall. The visitors center offered coffee and breakfast which I enjoyed before setting out again. Not long after the tarmac ran out and the real F35 Kjolur gravel and dirt road began. I climbed up to the plateau that would take me between two glaciers and all the way north to the small coast town of Blondous.
The landscape and terrain were very desolate and also very beautiful. The dirt road stretched out for as long as the eye could see. The weather was nice and for once the wind was not too bad. I passed one of the glacier fed rivers where a quick stop to filter some water drew enough flies to make me almost miss the strong wind. I climbed further up the plateau and found some nice places to take breaks and enjoy the uniqueness of Iceland. Towards the end of the day I stopped to wild camp and enjoy a nice evening with spectacular views all around.
Day eight broke to more of the same nice weather. I rode north following the F35 dirt road. The road winds up, down, right and left in rolling desolate rocky hills in a general northerly heading. I detoured to an area with warm geysers where I had heard there was a manned hut. Here I took a break enjoying the weather and charging my phone. There were a few campers here and one other bikepacker from Holland. We chatted and talked about gear. He was going in the other direction from me. He told me that the climb up to the F35 road from the northern side had been a short but steep affair compared to mine from the other end, that had been longer and less steep. That meant that I could look forward to a fast downhill the next day. After some hours I again took to the bike and rode north. In the late afternoon I refilled my water bottles and wild camped a few hundred meters from the road in a nice flat spot.
Day nine turned out to be an even nicer day with lots of sun. I packed up and took to the bike on what was to be my last day riding. At the first break of the day, I made coffee and ate breakfast. A couple of German tourists in a jeep stopped and asked if I needed any water, which was nice of them. I declined but thanked them for the offer. I came to the steep downhill and dropped about 500 meters of altitude in the span of a few kilometers. Unfortunately, I had to gain some of them back as I turned northwest through the hills before dropping down again and arriving at the coast in the small town of Blonduous. Here I quickly found the local restaurant that served a late brunch of toast, coffee, and eggs. The sun was out, and it was a warm and glorious day. I settled in at the local campground and enjoyed the afternoon with snacks and drinks from the local grocers. The weather shifted during the evening, and it became cold and a mist blew in from the sea. I stayed warm in my down quilt.
Day ten dawned cold and misty and I went to the local grocers to buy a large plastic bag that I put most of my gear and bike bags into. Then I ate a brunch, at the same restaurant before settling in to wait on the bus to take me to Reykjavik. The Ring Road busses take bikes on a rack at the back of the bus, but you must put your gear into the cargo hold. Also know the fare is not cheap, but the bus was nice enough and I spent most of the ride listening to a book. Arriving early evening in Reykjavik I packed the bike and rode out to the campground to settle in for the evening. I had planned on having a spare day in case of any poor weather og other misfortunes that would delay me. Since that had not been the case, I now had a full day to enjoy in Reykjavik before flying home.
Day eleven was my spare day so I spent it sightseeing in Reykjavik. Retrieving my bike bag. I disassembled my bike and packed everything, so I was ready for the next morning’s early pick up for the bus to take me and my bags to Keflavik airport and the flight home on day twelve. Bringing my almost 700-kilometer Icelandic bikepacking adventure to an end.
Thinking back as I do this write up and blog post. There are few things I would have done differently and few items I did not use. I was very lucky with the weather being mostly dry and even with lots of sun. The wind could be fierce but again I stayed mostly dry. The southern Ring Road into Vik is heavy with traffic in the summer. The drivers are mostly nice but the cars passing you can be annoying with little room. The section after Vik had notably less traffic. In the interior you will meet 4×4 enabled cars and it can be a pain when they throw up dust and sand in your face. I met very few other bikepackers.
Iceland itself is stunningly beautiful and impressive. It was everything I had hoped and more. I will for sure be back one day to ride other parts of the island. Maybe the remote northwesterly parts of the island will be calling to me in the future.
Please leave a comment og question if you enjoyed it or are going to Iceland.
Ultralight Pedestrian 